Bretton Woods 1/1/02

I haven't been to Bretton Woods Mountain Resort in years, mostly because I always thought of the terrain as relatively unchallenging. I was mistaken.

I woke up this morning and the light snow falling by the window fired up some subliminal instinct to go skiing somewhere. I think my prehistoric ancestors lived on a snowy mountain and spend most of their travel time sliding downhill. The genetic signals are still very strong.

I made a quick mental scan of what was out there and began calling different areas to hear their conditions. Bretton Woods had never been a serious selection in the past but I had heard about the addition of some new terrain in Rosebrook Canyon so I decided to call. The result was rags to riches when first I learned that the Rosebrook Canyon Glades were all closed and then found out that the general manager of the mountain, Chris Ellms, was willing to give me a guided tour beyond the rope.

I hit the ground running. The first thing I did when I arrived was to grab a trail map and to discover how much the area had changed since I'd visited years ago. They mapped an impressive 21 glade trails in Rosebrook Canyon and on West Mountain not to mention a few more in between. I met up with Chris and a couple of other skiers and we headed for the lifts. After a couple of warm-up runs, we headed over to West Mountain and checked out some of the glades over there. There was virgin snow in many places and it wasn't difficult to make new tracks. The base underneath was understandably thin but the glades were great. (Note: all glades everywhere rely completely on natural snow.)

Then we headed over to Rosebrook Canyon and slid under the rope. I must admit, this was the first time the general manager of a ski area had ever held up the rope for me, as I was about to poach a closed trail. (I guess it's not poaching if you have management's permission; damn.) The experience was still exhilarating.

The first trail we cut was Enchanted Bear, which linked to Minahan's Ridge. The trail was untracked and waiting for us to leave our marks. It follows the top of a relatively narrow ridge and it had a distinctly wild feeling to it. The entire canyon is a must-see. The conditions were better than I expected and it was silent running all the way down. With a good dumping of snow, these glades would rival any anywhere.

I later learned that Bretton Woods has big expansion plans with new lifts, another lodge, and many new trails and glades. They are planning a new detachable quad that will bring skiers and riders to the peak of Mt. Rosebrook and lifts and new trails that will also develop Mt. Stickney. The planned expansion will add another 200 acres of skiable terrain. Believe it or not, Bretton Woods has the most skiable terrain in NH already with 330 acres.

My experience at Bretton Woods was a wake-up call that there are probably other seemingly indistinct areas that deserve another look. Stay tuned. -P. Sachs

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Burke 2/11/01

It was only a matter of time before Mother Nature's benevolence ended this season. But what a cruel trick to play on the skiers and riders of the region by dumping one of the largest deposits of snow for the season and then raining on it a few days later. To add insult to injury she blew in some of the coldest air of the winter and froze the rain-soaked snow into a hard, pocked sculpture of a golfball's surface magnified a million times. At least that's what I expected when I got off my first, and most frigid ride up Burke's quad. I was surprised, however, at how well the maintenance crew was able to groom out the disaster before them. I thought I'd be dodging fist-sized death cookies broken from a solid sheet of ice by the groomer's tiller but they knew what they were doing. The trails at Burke were smooth and surprisingly edgable. I could fly down Warren's Way or Upper Willoughby with a secure connection between my edges and the slope but the faster I went, the colder it got. Finding little relief from the cold on the groomed trails, I decided to brave the frozen bumps and, even more foreboding, the trees. I went down Wilderness first and, although the surface was hard and rough, the bumps were unquestionably skiable. I tried a few other ungroomed runs like The Ledges, Lew's Leap, Boarder Line, Doug's Drop, and Fox's Folly and found them all to be both challenging and fun. I went into the woods once but the debris from high winds made negotiating the trees more of a challenge than I expected. I was glad that everything was open at Burke so I could experiment with the different terrain.

The bitter cold brought me back to the base lodge frequently but the fireplace was roaring and the coffee was hot. So, by the way, was the hot water in the bathrooms. I don't usually notice the number of times I wash my hands with cold water until I use a public restroom that actually has a functioning hot water heater. It was refreshing on such a winter's day.

-P. Sachs

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Cannon Mountain 12/30/01

It's almost the last day of the year and my first day of the season on the slopes. I know, shame on me. I just haven't been motivated to go out in view of the meager crystalline offerings from Mother Nature. My mistake!

Cannon opened the top portion of the mountain today and it was a blast. There was a lot of snow up there. The snow guns had banked and impressive reserve especially on Tramway, probably the best run of the day. My companion and I saw some people from the lift who were cutting up Hardscrabble but, when we reached the summit, the access trail, Tafts Slalom, was roped off. We found a narrow passage through the woods that connected Upper Ravine to Tafts Slalom and there was no rope across the entryway. We though we might be poaching but felt as though the case would be dismissed on a technicality. Organic remnants of the past growing season were ubiquitous on Tafts and Hardscrabble, like urban antennae that used to don apartment buildings (i.e., before cable) but they posed no impedance and caused no harm to skis or board. Although crusty, the terrain was navigable and exciting. (Please note: we at the Cheap Skiing Guide do not advocate poaching closed trails. They are closed for many reasons, the most important of which is danger.)

The terrain between the Peabody Quad and the tram was relatively well covered in view of the meager snowfall of late. Zoomer, Paulie's Folly, and Avalanche were ungroomed and the surface was unmistakably natural snow. It was hard but, unlike frozen and packed gun-snow, it was easy to dig your edges into it. The bumps were beginning to form but were understandably immature. I trust they will grow in time. Rocket was groomed and well covered early in the day but inevitably became impermeable as the day wore on.

Overall, my visit to Cannon was great. I've had better experiences at this mountain but, for my first day out, it was just right. Kudos to the crew at Cannon! The place was packed (SRO in the lodges) but not once did we ever wait in a lift line for more than a minute or two. -P. Sachs

WAIT, THERE'S MORE

A VIEW FROM THE RIDE SIDE by Rob Vaughan

I took my first boarding trip of the year with my very best bud Paul Sachs (a skier). It was also my first time ever to Cannon Mt. Although Mother Nature has not cooperated much so far this season, the snow conditions were very good. We did encounter some icy spots later in the day, after skiers (and riders) had a chance to scrape it off, but that is to be expected. We headed straight to the top of the mountain, taking several runs before coming back down to ride the Zoomer Triple for awhile. One of the great things about this mountain is the ability to escape the crowds of beginners. The first thing I noticed at Cannon was the interesting character of the trails. It's obvious this is an old time ski resort. The trails were built with the landscape not over it. Unfortunately, this can mean some long run-outs for riders at the bottom of several trails. So plan ahead, and don't try to go from Zommer to the Tram or you will be hiking. Remember boards were not around when this area was built. I mostly rode on Rocket off the triple. I was able to carve some beautiful turns and pretty much had the trail to myself. We had a most excellent day, and proved again that skiers and riders can coexist on the trails.

0=poor 10=excellent
Snow conditions = 7
Trail quality = 9
Lift lines = 9
Favorite Trails = Tramway, Middle Cannon, Rocket, Upper Ravine, all upper mountain trails.

Cannon Mountain 02/02/01

If you like corduroy, Cannon Mountain is the place to visit. They have miles of it. Even some of their steeper, more challenging trails like Zoomer, Avalanche, Paulie's Folly, Profile, and Upper Hardscrabble were either partially or completely groomed when I was there. The recent crystals from heaven incorporated into the surface made the trails delightfully soft and skiable. Bumps were harder to find but parts of Zoomer, Avalanche, and Paulie's Extension were nicely bumped and the fluffy snowfall from the last storm was great fun to push around. Middle Hardscrabble and Red Ball were also ungroomed and had some challenging but fun-to-ski bumps. If you like trees, Cannon has a couple of glades. I checked out Banshee Glade over by the tram-house and was pleasantly surprised by the amount of natural snow. It was relatively untracked too.

This second day of February was an extraordinary day at Cannon. One could light a match at the summit and there was precious little breeze to extinguish it. Without the wind blowing, the uppermost trails retained their cover for a greater part of the day and sounds of moving cappuccino makers were obscured until much later in the afternoon.

I had a nice conversation with Nat Putnam, the skier services director, and queried him about the conspicuous absence of ungroomed trails. He empathized and indicated an interest in increasing the acreage of bumps and even glades but the decision is not his to make. He said he was planning to lobby for more ungroomed areas. In the meantime, all you GS cruisers who love the smooth and effortless turns on moderate to steep groomed slopes should take advantage of the absolutely wonderful terrain at Cannon Mountain. -P. Sachs

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JAY PEAK 1/27/02

The rain that fell last week was welcomed, for the most part, in a parched region that hasn't seen substantive re-hydration since last July, but I always worry how it will affect the ski areas (especially my favorite ones). I should know better than to worry about Jay. While most of Vermont was getting a good soaking, Jay was getting snow—lots of it.

The conditions there today were as good as they get, with the possible exception of those days just after a storm when there's nothing but powder (a relatively unusual occurrence in the east but not uncommon at Jay). But the weather today more than made up for the lack of uncut trails. It was an unseasonably mild day with temperatures in the forty's, sunny, and gentle winds. It felt like April, maybe March, but not January. I skied with no hat, so sweater, just a light windbreaker and gloves. And it was obvious, just looking around, that I was not the only person smiling. The surface was consistently edge-able everywhere.

The tree trails at Jay have always been, and continue to be, the big attraction for me, and many other skiers and riders. People who ski the woods here tend to look into the trees at other areas they may visit. Consequently, many of those areas are opening more and more natural terrain for the advanced and adventuresome. It's important to remember, however, tree trails depend entirely on natural snow and there is no lift-served area east of the Mississippi that gets more snow than Jay Peak. You can certainly find, as I have on many occasions, good tree skiing elsewhere, but if there's any question in your mind about adequate snow, Jay is more likely to have it covered. -P. Sachs

JAY PEAK 2/24/01

Today was probably not the best day to visit Jay. An extreme weather system had moved into the region and, even though ice was forecast all through New England, I went anyway. At the risk of sounding repetitious, I've always believed that no matter what the weathermen say, it doesn't mean squat at Jay. And, although rain was predicted, I knew Jay would be different. I was right. Out of the sky over Jay Peak fell a dry, crystalline ice, much like the consistency of table salt. It was a fast, silent, and dense surface. Skis and boards rode high and edged deep. I've only experienced this type of snow once before, on January 20, 1999. None but one of my friends would follow me to Jay that day because, like today, freezing rain was forecast for the entire region. It was as incredible then as it was today.

The big problem with the weather was not the tiny diamonds falling from the sky. It was the powerful winds propelling them at such speeds that you felt as though your face was being sand-blasted, and even that would have been tolerable if the wind hadn't shut down most of the lifts. Upon my arrival I learned the only the Jet Triple would be operating and that meant access to only a handful of glades. Disappointing as it was, the conditions everywhere were great. We skied everything that could be accessed from the triple chair in the morning and decided, over lunch, that today would be a good day for some off-piste skiing. We parked a car on Rt. 242 in the Montgomery Gap and then came back to the lifts in another car. We rode the triple chair to the top and skied, out-of-bounds, down over a part of the mountain called The Dip. We weren't sure exactly where we were going but we were lucky enough to meet someone willing to trade some secrets for a ride back to the lifts. We had room in the truck and now we had a guide. Our newfound friend showed us a part of the mountain called The Ridge and there we found snow that was easily up to our chests. You couldn't tell at first because the skies and boards rode relatively high but if a ski came off, one quickly learned how deep the snow can get at Jay Peak. Everyone in our party was so enthusiastic after our first run down The Ridge that we all decided to do it again. Between leaving a vehicle at the gap, driving back to the lifts, skiing down, and driving back to the lifts again, it took between 45 minutes and an hour for each run. I really don't recommend that anyone ski off-piste at Jay (or anywhere else) without someone who really knows his or her way around. If you don't know any locals there, Jay offers guided tours into some of their out-of-bounds terrain. If you are an advanced skier, it is an experience you should definitely savor. You will never forget it.

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Looks just like winter

Killington, November 9, 2004 Going out for the first time each year is special. I don't know exactly what it is but I know it's not the snow guns blowing icy cold water that freezes on your face and goggles. And, I know it's not the inevitable congestion of downhill addicts all clamoring for a taste of winter's wonders on a limited number of trails. Perhaps it's the exquisite flavor of spring skiing and riding we've all been savoring for these past six to seven months and it is now just too overwhelming to contain any longer. Maybe it's the crisp cold air filling our lungs, our thoughts, and our souls with something pure, clean, and abundant. Whatever it is, there is really nothing like putting on the boards for the first time every year. Killington provided an excellent site to vent all the pent up exhilaration that needed to be released. The snow was soft and inviting and triggered instincts which I, for one, wondered if I still possessed. But, they were there. It may be another two weeks before other eastern areas open. How much longer can you hold it in?             -Paul Sachs

Killington November 16, 2003

When the first flakes begin to appear in the fall, it seems to me an insufferable tease to the hardcore skiers and riders of the region. These frozen crystals trickle down, begin to accumulate, and give us the false sense that it’s only a matter of moments before mother nature will blanket all with a thick layer of snow. But, it’s usually months before the omni-white look is ubiquitous. So, it’s no surprise that when an area like Killington opens for the season, there is a charge of sliding and riding junkies that implodes from every direction like a collapsing universe and it exponentially increases downhiller density to the verge of another Big Bang. The downside of this, of course, is congestion on a limited number of trails but the upside is well worth it. Stepping into or onto your boards, whether single or double, and feeling the force of gravity for the first time in months is a thrill beyond words. For the most devout, it’s got to be as electrifying as hitting an eagle on a par 3—I wouldn’t know (I’ve never hit a hole-in-one).

I did hit the slopes, however, at 8:30, which was late considering that the lifts began running at 8:00. I was still among the early birds though and my first half dozen runs were through near-virgin conditions (not to be confused with virgin powder from the sky). Nevertheless, Killington’s snow guns did an admirable job creating a fast, carve-able surface. In fact, a couple of trails, Conclusion and East Glade, had big soft bumps that were great fun ski.

To add frosting to an already great tasting treat, the weather was spectacular. Just cold enough to continue making snow but sunny with clear blue skies all day. Sorry Killington, I just can’t give you credit for that.

By mid-afternoon, the ski/mountain interface began to wear from the deluge of edges planing layers off the frozen base. My keenly tuned ears picked up the sound of cappuccino makers moving down the trials and I sadly realized it was time to call it a day. But, thank you Killington. It was well worth the trip.

KILLINGTON 11/10/02

Finally, after 37 years of skiing, I decided it was time for a helmet. I agonized for years over the decision. (Actually, I was tortured into concession by friends and family.) My argument against wearing a helmet was never rooted in a cavalier feeling of invincibility, only a question of comfort, the ability to hear, and the circumstantial evidence that almost everyone I know who wears a helmet (and no one I know who doesn't) has suffered a mild concussion--while his or her helmet was on. Of course, when questioned about this peculiarity, everyone has the same response, "Think of what might have happened if I wasn't wearing one." Helmet users tend to react defensively when one questions this icon of safety, almost as if you were attacking their child.

On my way to Killington this morning I was actually excited about my new helmet reasoning that it might filter some of the deafening snow gun noises that are typical this time of year. But, when I looked at the car's thermometer, I realized it was too warm for making snow and probably too warm for a helmet too. There weren't any tree trails open yet at Killington so I questioned the need for it. Nevertheless, I decided to wear the helmet and at least test it for comfort.

My companion and I got an early start and arrived at Killington's Base Lodge a little after 7 am. We suited up, had a little breakfast, and were on one of the first few gondola rides up. I was amazed to see so many trails open so early in the season and so many lifts running too. It seemed as if a quarter to a third of the ski area was open (this is a lot of terrain for early November). It was our first day out of this season and the warm temperature softened the snow into nice spring-like conditions but I wouldn't call my first couple of runs confidence builders. Within a short time, however, my abilities bounced back and I couldn't blame the helmet for anything. Lines were non-existent that morning so we were able to take as many as 6 runs an hour. The snow was soft and there were beaver-hut-sized bumps on some of the steeper trails. I wondered if my bump skills were still in the old database and if the helmet was going to mess with my balance. Again, I was unable to blame the helmet. My skis zigged and zagged just as I wished them too and my bump experience was most excellent.

Jack Frost has cooperated so far this fall and allowed for some serious snowmaking. The snow gods have also extended some early season generosity to Killington and other ski areas in the region. Killington is usually the first area to open in the fall and also the last to close in spring, but I usually shy away from early season skiing where only a few trails are open and typically crowded. But, Kudos to Killington for top to bottom coverage this early. If the weather turns, the snow melts, and the trail count drops, however - don't blame my helmet.

P. Sachs

Killington 1/4/02

Yankee ingenuity is epitomized at Killington as much as it is anywhere in the northeast. Mother Nature's niggardly deposits of flakes in this region didn't curtail their ability to provide skiers and riders with an exceptionally good surface. Made-made snow is distinctly different from the natural stuff but the differences are notably subtler at Killington. There's no argument that the wind-swept yellow ice is a trademark of gun snow, but the silky smooth deposits of crystals that the Killington crew makes are different than what is found at most other areas. Apparently, they are using the latest in snow making technology.

When I arrived, Dennis Demers, a very friendly volunteer who was working as one of Killington's good-will ambassadors, greeted me. He took me on some of Killington's signature trails and my edges and I were impressed with the surface. The bumps were few and far between where we skied but they were soft and fun to maneuver through. We hit pockets of fresh (gun) powder and experienced silent running mode, a condition I personally equate with near-perfection.

The only lift line I could find was at the gondola, but with a capacity of eight per car, the line moved quickly. We never waited for more than five minutes.

Three days after my visit, Killington received 12-15 inches of new (natural) snow. I wonder if I could tell the difference.

Killington 12/5/00

For the first time in years I let the month of November go by without skiing at least once. It wasn't because my choices were limited. Indeed, the season is off to one of its best starts in a long time. But the wait was worth it when a friend and I rolled up to Killington on Dec 5. While I was watching November slip away, Killington was busy making snow, helped by consistently cold temperatures and the completion of a major snow making project.

With 75 trails open when we arrived, I knew there would be enough terrain to keep us interested all day. What we really didn't expect, but were delighted to find, was a side-to-side surface of packed powder. Early season surface conditions can sometimes be, well, crunchy, but not that day.

With so much good terrain at our disposal we immediately set out to explore as much of it as we could. A quick ride up the K1 Gondola put us at the top of the goods. Our intent was to take a warm-up run down East Glade, then ski the intermediate terrain off the Glades triple until we found our ski legs. But the steep East Fall looked so inviting that we plunged in, carving turns in the soft snow until we found ourselves back at the Gondola. That's the way most of the morning went, interspersed with side trips to the Snowdon quad (where we skied a skim of new over small bumps on Chute) and the Superstar quad, where we skied under a man-made blizzard on Superstar, where more than 40 snow guns were blowing. Our contact in Killington's front office told us emphatically to check out Bittersweet, which we did - several times. There we found bumps and huge mounds of man-made with 15-foot drops on the downhill side, an early-season playground seemingly just for us.

After a morning of mixed sun and clouds, a darker cloud settled overhead and it started to snow. It seemed like a good time to drop into Cascade, whose bumps we had been eyeing from the Gondola all morning. Wind-blown snow made the bumps on the flattish upper part a challenge, but when we turned the corner at the old Killington double mid-station, visibility improved and we found a rhythm. Killington's aggressive snow making meant the troughs were rock-free and ice-free, so we could concentrate on technique instead of worrying about our bases.

As the afternoon passed the snow continued, adding a layer of new over an already good surface. It's clear that Killington's new water source, Woodward Reservoir, is being put to good use. -T. Durgin

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Mt. Sunapee 12/13/02

Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, nothing goes the way you planned it. Other times, without trying at all, everything goes better than you could have imagined. That's the way it was at Mt. Sunapee today. I woke up, it was Friday the 13th, my back hurt, it snowed the night before last (not last night), and thick fog had settled into the valley. I didn't think that skiing would be any good today. When I arrived in the Mt. Sunapee parking lot, the companion I was meeting was waiting for me (instead of the other way around) and I could see that the sun trying to burn through. Things were beginning to look up. The newer of the two Sunapee lodges is probably one of my favorites. It was built for people trying to walk in ski boots. We got our passes and had some time for breakfast before the lifts opened.

I'm certainly not a food critic but I know what tastes good and what tastes mediocre (I'll eat just about anything without complaining). My breakfast sandwich was not sitting in a foil bag under heat lamps—it was made to order and it had to be the second best I've ever had—the best being the one my wife makes (I didn't have to say that, she never reads the CSG).

There was only one person ahead of us in the lift line when loading began so however good the surface was going to be today, we would experience it at its best. Lately, I've used sound as an important criterion for evaluating ski conditions. The less sound your skies or board makes against the slope's surface, the better. Corduroy is never really silent but it was pretty quiet today. Not only that but the fog cleared, there was easily 100 miles of visibility, there was no wind, and the temperature warmed to between 35 and 40 degrees. In other words, this was the kind of day when ski areas take pictures for advertisements. Usually, I get bored quickly with groomed trails but conditions were conducive to high speed cruising and I was having a blast. Sunapee even had a couple of glades open that were in pretty good shape. Unfortunately, the few ungroomed trails were not bumped up yet and the heavy snow made maneuvering difficult.

Little did I know that this day was going to turn out so well. I'd say perfect but my back still hurts. -P. Sachs

Mt. Sunapee 01/26/01

I had the honor of skiing Mt. Sunapee for the first time with Mr. Cheap Skiing Guide himself on Jan. 26, which proved to be a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky. It was also a day when many New Hampshire schools offered teacher workshops. We quickly learned that New Hampshire youth know how to take advantage of a midweek day of freedom from school. They do not surf the net; they cruise the slopes. And why not? Mt. Sunapee offers a fine day's skiing and riding for skiers and boarders of all ability. The mountain, with a summit of 2,743 feet, is a moderate mountain with great cruising trails groomed to a flawless corduroy that would make Lands End proud and served by a new high speed detachable quad. In addition to the cruisers, there is a fine new beginner's area and the Mountain Dew Snowboard Zone complete with halfpipe. Your best bet for bumps is Upper Flying Goose off the North Peak Triple, next to the curiously bumpless, Goose Bumps. My favorite slope was Upper Blast-Off from the Summit. The slope was nice and steep from the top with enough moguls to make the descent interesting but not so many as to make one fear for the health of middle-aged knees. Finally, the mountain boasts several glades that look like they have the potential to be interesting. Unfortunately, there was not quite enough snow in the woods for us to sample them at their best.

One can't leave Mt. Sunapee without mentioning its terrific new lodge that is actually designed for skiers. It is sunny and spacious with stairs that can be easily navigated by ski boots. Even the bathrooms are spacious enough to allow one to stretch while getting out of a sweater without worrying about hitting a fellow skier otherwise engaged. -Scott Labun

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Corn snow in the trees

Sunday River, March 11, 2007 My first trip to Sunday River for the season met with some pleasant surprises. The groomed surfaces were firmer than I like but, to be fair, it had rained lightly late in the night before and froze in the wee morning hours. Conditions in the trees, however, were surprisingly good and by afternoon, everything began to soften nicely. Spring was in the air and corn was on the bumps. Shockwave (the trail) was especially soft and steep. It was obvious, the season was far from over. I was impressed to see that Sunday River has something for everyone, whether you are a beginner or an advanced skier or rider, the right trail was there...you just have to find it. And there's plenty of hospitality representatives around to help. -Paul Sachs

SUGARBUSH 1/31/02

At first glance, I thought I had picked the wrong day to come to Sugarbush. The surface looked hard from the lift and recent rains had thinned the cover on many trials. I chuckled when I thought about my request to tour the Slide Brook Wilderness area. Lucky for me, guest services had no available guides today.

But then it began to snow. The intensity of the storm increased as the day wore on and my experience changed with the surface from disappointment to total elation. By the end of the day, I was the loudest skier on the mountain, screaming and laughing from top to bottom. The snow was light and dry and there was at least six inches of it on my last few runs.

Sugarbush has always been one of my favorite areas. The terrain is naturally contoured to the shape of the mountains and the two distinctly different areas (Lincoln Peak and Mt. Ellen), connected by the Slide Brook Chair, give the skier or rider great variety. And, there's terrain for everyone from the occasional to the hardcore skier or rider.

Speaking of hardcore, I used to put myself in that category until I met a skier from West Virginia named Scott at a mid-mountain lodge on Mt. Ellen. He had recently purchased new skies and was anxious to try them out. Since none of the Pennsylvania ski areas he usually haunts were open (they are experiencing a mid-winter heat wave), he drove nine and a half-hours to Sugarbush, arrived at 3:30am, caught some shut-eye in the parking lot, and hit the slopes as soon as they opened. I realize it's only one man's opinion, but he picked Sugarbush out of a long list of Vermont and New Hampshire possibilities, many of which are hours closer.

Did one of your eyebrows just go up a little?

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SUGARLOAF USA 3/30/01

My first visit ever to Sugarloaf USA was blessed with fresh snow falling faster than skiers and riders could scrape it from the slopes. My only quibble with the weather was that I came all the way up to Carrabassett Valley to experience the snow fields but the visibility was so poor at the summit, it was difficult to see my ski tips, let alone the open expanse above the tree-line. Nevertheless, my experience at Sugarloaf was memorable beyond words.

I came as the guest of a business associate who put me up at the Sugarloaf Inn and bought me a lift ticket. As soon as the lifts began moving Friday morning, I was suited up and antsy to get on the slopes. When my companion suggested a warm-up run down a groomed cruiser, I listened. The pain in my back from foregoing the obligatory acclimation run at Wildcat nearly two weeks ago was an unpleasant reminder of what can happen to an overanxious skier. I took a few cruisers this time before moving on to any ungroomed terrain and did some stretching before getting on the lift. The surface was soft and silent and it hadn't even started snowing yet.

About 10:00 am the snow began to fall and within a half-hour's time almost an inch had accumulated. As the day went on, the intensity of the storm grew and by 2:00 pm, 6-8 inches of fresh snow had fallen. There weren't a lot of people there so it wasn't getting skied off. We were cutting fresh tracks on every run and each run got better than the last. At one point my companion began falling every time he turned to the left. After about the third crash, we discover the metal edge on the inside of his right skied had torn out from the ski-tip to the toe of his boot. We weren't sure how it happened as there were no rocks or other hazards anywhere to be seen but it didn't matter. We broke off the dangling strip of steel and continued on. There was no need for edges anyway.

At one point toward the end of the day and for lack of a better description, I reached a transcendental state of oneness with the mountain. It was on Ripsaw, an ungroomed double-black along the far-left boundary. The wind had pushed all the fresh snow into the troughs and no one had cut tracks through it. The slope looked smooth and there was no way to see whether you were on top of or in between the moguls. As I began my descent, I could feel the terrain nudge me upwards, a perfect opportunity to initiate a turn. As I came down I felt the same gentle guidance urging me to change direction again. I concentrated on keeping my body in the right position as the mountain guided my skis, silently and softly down the slope. I picked up a little speed and my Bandit XX's began to float. I was literally flying over the soft, fresh snow, not feeling the firm terrain underneath. All I could sense was the gentle persuasive force guiding the movement of my feet. If I closed my eyes I would have taken the same path but I'd have missed the experience of a lifetime. -P. Sachs

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Waterville Valley 12/00

Back in December I found myself in the company of about 30 ski instructors, gathered at Waterville Valley for an early-season workshop. I had been looking at the Valley's snow reports all week with an eye on how much terrain they would have open. Waterville can get crowded on a weekend, thanks to its easy access off I-93.

I needn't have worried. The mountain had just over half its terrain open, with room for all abilities. As we split into groups, we were given the choice of joining a slow, medium, or fast group. I chose the latter. It was a no-brainer; Waterville's frequently buffed trail network is tailor-made for fast and fun cruising. Our group made the most of it, taking advantage of the edge-to-edge cover. Cold temperatures and a stiff Northwest wind held down the crowds, but with Christmas shopping on everyone's mind I doubt the mountain would have been overwhelmed in any case. Even on Sunday, when Threedom Pass holders can begin to use the pass for the week (the pass is good Sun-Fri) and the weather was better, I never felt crowded.

With so much open and so few to ski it, the mountain felt like a private playground. And play we did, especially on two of the area's steeper runs, Gema and Ciao. The latter was slathered in new man-made snow, with more of it being blown constantly from a phalanx of snow guns. It was the closest thing to powder short of the real stuff, and we skied it again and again.

It had been several years since I visited Waterville, and I was reminded of why I like the place. First, there's the "access" road (actually NH 49) which runs almost entirely through the White Mountain National Forest. That means a welcome absence of development, winning the route my vote for the most scenic access to a major resort in the East. Second, there's Waterville's customer service, starting with a friendly greeting at the entrance to the base lodge complex and continuing to the lift ops. And then there's the fine cruising terrain, spread across a backdrop of National Forest.

Although our group skied fast and hard, we appreciated the surroundings and the snow. And I promised myself to get back to Waterville soon. -T. Durgin

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WILDCAT 1/13/02

Big snowstorms have been few and far between this winter so before I decided where I was going today, I checked the web sites of several different areas to see who had been blessed the most in the last few days. Of all of them, Wildcat claimed 23 inches of new snow, in the past week. It's a long ride but Wildcat is one of my favorite areas.

I invited a couple of friends, one who had just purchased a new pair of K2 Patriots, the first new pair of skis he's ever bought in his life. He was always tickled pink to get great deals on used equipment but found the K2's in a clearance sale for about a third of retail. He had been skiing on boards I sold him five years ago and I used them for five years before that. One can only imagine the techno-shock he must have experienced changing from ten-year-old so-so skis to these modern marvels.

It started snowing when we hit the road and was coming down pretty hard when we arrived at Wildcat. We got our tickets and headed for the lifts. It was pleasing to see the amount of snow that had accumulated on our jackets during the short lift ride. The snow was a blessing, both for us and for Wildcat. It was silent running just about everywhere we went and the snow refreshed the slopes all day long. We cut fresh tracks on almost every trail-all day.

Most of the area was groomed but skiers and riders were quickly shaping the new snow into some interesting and challenging terrain. The ungroomed trails were marked with "Thin Cover" signs at the entrance but with only a little effort, the few exposed p-tex eating rocks could easily be avoided. And as the day progressed, those trails kept getting better.

Wildcat has some nice glades but they were closed. I asked one of the Wildcat hosts if he could show us some unmapped terrain. He said that he couldn't but since Wildcat is on National Park land, people are free to go where they please; however, they take full responsibility for their own safety and will be charged for the cost of a rescue (if it is necessary). I asked if this policy applied to closed trails and he was reluctant to say what I wanted to hear. I asked some members of the ski patrol and they were less reluctant but, unfortunately, told me what I didn't want to hear. I saw some poachers in the glades as I rode up the lift and watched them scar the virgin snow. The temptation was strong but there was plenty of open terrain at Wildcat to enjoy and conditions were great.

Those of you who are still waiting for snow, head for Wildcat. -P. Sachs

WILDCAT 3/18/01

I was really looking forward to visiting Wildcat again, as I hadn't been for a couple of years. I remember loving the terrain when I skied there last but what I recalled the most was the incredible view of Tuckerman Ravine directly across the valley. I was hoping the visibility would allow a clear view and I wasn't disappointed. My first ride up the notably quick detachable quad was spectacular but what distracted my rubbernecking at Tuckerman was the condition of the trails below. I knew Wildcat had a lot of snow—every area in the northeast was blessed this year—but I'd never seen the double diamond trails, Black Cat, Starr Line, and Al's Folly so well covered, and not with ice. I tried a nice easy first run down Polecat to warm-up but the bumps beckoned and I quickly found myself cutting up the double D lumps on Black Cat. I probably should have been patient as the moguls were harder than they looked from the chair and I realized on my second ride up that something wasn't right with my lower back. As the day wore on everything softened nicely and the lure of Mountain Jag Glade, Catacomb Glade, Tomcat Schuss, Top Cat, and Lift Lion was stronger than the need to preserve my back. By afternoon, a thick band of clouds hugged the Presidential Range like a comforter and visually blocked all but the lower region of Tuckerman Ravine. However, the sun was still shinning on Wildcat's side of the notch and continued softening the terrain until late in the afternoon.

I rank Wildcat high on my list of areas with challenging terrain but they also have plenty for novice and intermediate skiers and riders. I'm impressed with the number of families with young children who come to Wildcat and I'm impressed with their facility too. It is clean, roomy, and comfortable. I hope to get back to Wildcat again this season...that is, as soon as my back lets me.

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